- #1989 ford explorer radio wiring drivers#
- #1989 ford explorer radio wiring full#
- #1989 ford explorer radio wiring free#
The EEC on the 4.0 harness (grn/red wire) needs to be wired to the ignition switch. I wired together the power doors, headlights, and interior fuse box. With both distribution boxes next to each other, cut the wires off the 2.9 box one at a time and wire them to the 4.0 box accordingly. Pull the 2.9 harness the same way but don’t cut the wiring yet. I had to cut one wire that went into the headlight harness, but I just spliced it to the same wire coming from the 2.9 HH. I found that it didn’t reach the 4.0 starter so I swapped it out. Others have used the 2.9 starter harness. Cut here keeping the alt, starter and solenoid harness. Everything should unplug until you get to where the distribution box meets the headlights next to the battery. You’ll have to extend the line from the TB to the canister if you don’t swap them. The lines will connect to the older one, but the nipple on the filter is not as long and you wont be able to get the removal tool behind it to remove later.Īlso keep your existing line from fuel tank the charcoal canister unless you swap that out also. If you go this route, use a 4.0 fuel filter. If you heat the plastic, you could deform it and may not seal. If you do this, heat up the metal line and slide the plastic over it. I cut off the female end and slid it on the 4.0 lines and added a hose clamp for security. Now on the filter end, the return line on the 2.9 is female, but the 4.0 is a male. It would just be easier to get to.) The disconnects at the motor are not the same between the 2.9 and 4.0. That is pretty straight forward.īefore dropping the motor in, swap the fuel lines from fuel filter to disconnects with your donor (I did this after the motor was in. I am not going into any details about pulling and installing the motors.
#1989 ford explorer radio wiring drivers#
This will let you keep the harness on the motor, on there.ĭisconnect headlight harness on drivers side. Remove and mark all plugs that are before the main harness plug, ie: MAF, alt, headlight plug.ĭisconnect two big plugs next to alt. Return bolts to original hole after removing any brackets or whatever so you know where they go and don’t end up with a pile of unknown bolts at the end of your swap. Remove radiator, starter, a/c lines, power steering lines, cruise and throttle cables, fuel lines, vacuum lines. Remove fuel pump fuse, or hit the fuel cut off switch. I ordered a new 4.0 flywheel, 4.0 slave, and 4.0 clutch kit to make it work with the new motor (I found out after that the 93-94 slave cylinders have a different fitting than the earlier years so instead of buying a another slave and dropping the tranny, I chose to buy a 94 master cylinder and clutch line for a little over twice the price of a slave, but I didn’t have to drop the tranny again so it was worth it to me.)įirst thing if you are pulling from a running vehicle. Since my donor had an auto in it, I kept my original FM-146 transmission. I didn’t have the money to throw at one before my swap. If you have the money to go ahead and replace the oil pump. Clutch (if applicable), plugs, wires, pcv, air filter, oil, oil filter, antifreeze, ps fluid, fuel filter, serpentine belt, water pump, valve cover gaskets (please please go with permadry, don’t use cork), oil pan gasket. I advise you to do a thorough tune up to your new motor.
#1989 ford explorer radio wiring free#
If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of the forums.
#1989 ford explorer radio wiring full#
By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. Time to install: 1-2 weeks+ (depending on skill and prep)ĭisclaimer: The, the Bronco Corral Staff, nor the original poster is responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. Original Poster: Dustin Ewers (disciplerocks)